Charming Courtyards & Secret Passageways

Lobos Lodge began in 1920 as a group of cottages managed by their neighbor, the Pine Inn. Major reconstruction occurred in the 1970's when architect Will Shaw designed the current hotel that honors the stately old oak tree in the center courtyard. The interesting small wood and glass structure on the Ocean Avenue entrance has jewelry and other gifts by local artisans. From here you can follow the brick walkway and stairs to the parking lot on Monte Verde and admire the flowers, fountain and interesting tile artwork.

The Pine Inn, designed and built by M.J. Murphy, opened July 4, 1903 and quickly became the central hotel for Carmel. The well-planted red brick terrace, accessible from Ocean Avenue or Mission Street, is a lovely spot worth lingering in before finding the perfect latte at Il Forniao.  Inside, notice the mini-dome that in 1972 extended dining onto the terrace under the protection of its sliding glass doors and roof. There has long been a fine selection of shops on the terrace, including Fourtané Jewelers since 1950.

The name brings to mind the coastal town of northwestern Italy. A plaque on the walkway proclaims "Ausonio Construction 1979," a company active in the area since 1959. The entrance on Lincoln merges into El Prado de Su Vecino Court and takes you to Dolores Street.

The courtyard's name reflects the neighborly community of Carmel and grew up around the terrace of Su Vecino's Mexican restaurant that opened in the 1950's by August & Louisa Nieto. Much later, the restaurant was home to the serape worn by Clint Eastwood in the famous film from 1966 The Good, the Bad and the Ugly. Another local favorite, Jack London's Bar & Grill relocated from San Carlos Square to this spot in 2001. Author of The Call of the Wild and other adventure novels, London often visited his bohemian friends in early Carmel. Now, in addition to some wonderful art galleries, the square is home to the popular Cultura Carmel, a beautiful and tasty Oaxacan-Mexican spot.

The Lincoln Lane Courtyard & Passageway is currently under construction.

This tiny bamboo-lined passageway connects Dolores Street to San Carlos Street and beckons the walker into the hidden sanctuary of Pilgrim's Way bookstore and garden — for over 40 years a local favorite. Here it is nearly possible to listen to the quiet while enjoying the peaceful fountains, mysterious figurines, and enticing gifts. Note the geodesic dome — quite possibly the oldest in Carmel.

The story goes that this little nook of shops was inspired by a street in Tunbridge Wells, England. Looking around, it is easy to imagine the story is true. Since 1955, Em-Le's restaurant has been serving both residents and visitors in its storybook cottage. The tiny courtyard, in former days, led to the "locals only" back entrance of the Hog's Breath Inn. Today it is closed but an original sign helps direct you to the famous spot.

The redwood-sided building was built in the mid-80's by former mayor of Carmel, actor-director Clint Eastwood. The courtyard looks down upon the Hog's Breath Inn which he and Walter Becker established in 1972. After Eastwood closed it in 1999 it was later reopened under new ownership that has retained the original Eastwood ambience. Explore the passageway and enjoy a nice view down to the Hog's Breath patio.

Wander around this intriguing court with its Tudor-like cottage architecture filled with nooks and crannies waiting to be discovered. Bennett Sculpture, created by a family of artists, began at this location in the early 1980's. For another local shortcut, follow the grey stone walk and weathered wrought-iron railings to stairs leading down to the Secret Garden and on to Dolores Street.

Named after the Cinderella Shop that clothed Carmelites for over 50 years, the quaint cottage-like building was also home to well-known artist Danny Garcia's gallery. The Lane provides a shortcut from Ocean Avenue to Sixth Street. Follow the gaily-colored tiles and hanging flower baskets and you will discover a longtime local favorite — Flaherty's Seafood Grill & Oyster Bar and find out for yourselves why the owners boast "Fish is Everything!"

The square leads from San Carlos Street and merges with the passageway to Mission Patio. On the way enjoy Bee Bark & Moss and Loes Hinse's clothing store — her stylish European fashion designs are known worldwide and available here. The small court features a glass kiosk that has been home to many artist galleries and boutiques. Stationaery restaurant is a lively and very popular local's spot for lunch or dinner.

The courtyard is narrow and inviting with large red paving stones and pots of brightly blooming flowers. The restaurant, opened in 2005 by Firok Shield, is a favorite with both locals and visitors. They are famous for their beautiful wall mural as well as their Bolognese. Follow the lane to Tony's Frame Shop — a longtime provider of excellent framing services to Carmel's art community.

Named after Charles May who owned May Cleaners situated here for many years, the faded pink of his once brightly colored establishment can still be seen. The front angled building has been home to many cafes and restaurants through the years, including, in a bygone era, the Donut Den. Bougainvillea now flourishes on an old Monterey-style balcony that juts out above the longtime Carmel Jewelry Studio.

The McFarland Center was built in 1977 on the site of an early service station. Inspired by English Tudor architecture (1485-1603) this collection of shops and businesses offer another angled shortcut from Mission Street to Sixth Avenue — directly across from the fire station. Grasing's Coastal Cuisine restaurant since 1998 has an award-winning reputation as well as a cozy pet-friendly patio.

Ferns, succulents and large oak trees seem right at home against the striking red brick and tiles of this bright and airy two-storied courtyard hosting an interesting assortment of boutiques and galleries. Toward the back is the passageway, with more shops, leading down to San Carlos Square.

The bright bougainvillea climbing on Carmel stone marks the entrance to this court where a giant oak tree dwarves the small courtyard nestled between three small stone and wood-framed houses. The front houses are businesses but at the end of the courtyard and behind a fence is a private home.

Mixing small businesses and apartments has long been a tradition in Carmel and this court is an interesting example. There is a quiet, unhurried feel to the hedge-lined courtyard dotted with palms and other plants nearly hiding a small fountain on the terrace of what was the well-loved IL Grillo restaurant.

A flower-laden lane of red-tile roofed studios and offices provides a wonderful end to one of Katy's famous breakfasts. Bougainvillea climbs up stucco walls and window boxes brim over with colorful blooms that lead to a secluded bench and an arched gate. Carmel has secrets to safeguard and the inviting gate at the end of the lane is locked.

Tucked behind Cottage Row in Carmel-by-the-Sea, the newly revitalized Lucky Heart Cottage Court is a hidden European-inspired garden courtyard designed by Tracie Zelei-Rossi. Featuring lush greenery, flowering plants, sculptural elements, and intimate seating areas, the courtyard was thoughtfully transformed into a peaceful gathering space that celebrates creativity, community, and quiet discovery. Surrounded by local women-owned businesses and galleries, the space invites visitors to pause, explore, and experience one of Carmel's most charming hidden corners.

Hailed as "A Bit of Old Europe" this courtyard is considered Carmel's first shopping center. Former Los Angeles attorney, Edward Kuster, fulfilled a dream when in 1923 he built the Theatre of the Golden Bough. "Golden Bough" refers to the Aeneid and symbolizes the secret that unlocks our imagination. The imposing Theatre sat at the back of the courtyard which Kuster surrounded with small artisan studios and shops, including Ruth Kuster's Carmel Weaver's Studio. In 1923, Edward moved a unique, curlicue-roofed building from Ocean and Monte Verde (well-known today as The Cottage of Sweets) to be a fanciful ticket booth for his new Golden Bough Playhouse. In 1935 a fire broke out in the Theatre and ended its illustrious career. The Carmel Pine Cone reported the news to a devastated community: "Where famous artists and Carmel's finest thespians have trod the boards since 1924, desolation reigns today...." As you meander through the winding passageways and stairs you may be reminded of an early scene shot here for Clint Eastwood's 1971 film, Play Misty for Me.

Ever wondered what to do with all your books? For Herbert Heron the solution was simple - create a two-storied building worthy of his fine collection and name it for the seven branches of knowledge which were taught in the Middle Ages - grammar, rhetoric, logic, arithmetic, geometry, astronomy and music. Heron chose architect Clay Otto and builder Percy Parkes, as well as husband and wife artists George Seideneck and Catherine Comstock, to oversee the decor as construction began in 1925. The city directory for the following year stated: "The Seven Arts Building was the original of Carmel's famous shops...the first devoted to things of beauty and utility instead of utility alone."

Herbert Heron founded Carmel's famous Forest Theater in 1910 — the oldest outdoor theater west of the Rockies. He was devoted to all the arts and leased space in his building to the Carmel Arts and Crafts Club which later became the Carmel Art Association. Photography legend Edward Weston's studio was upstairs, looking down upon Ocean Avenue, in what is now the Carmel Bay Company store - "a contemporary approach to eclectic living" for many years.

The building has an old European feel with vines growing freely against the grey walls, moss etched mismatched paving stones, and a fountain. Be sure to notice the exterior light fixtures high up in the courtyard and the old sign that marks the Carmel Pipe Shop at home here since the early '60's. Their doorway was originally the entrance to Heron's home.

La Rambla was built in 1929 for Carmel resident Josephine Baber and created in a Mediterranean style by Carmel designer Guy O. Koepp to be apartments. A rounded arched arcade leads into a courtyard and garden once, in the 1930's, home to a gift shop specializing in a eclectic mix of collectibles from many places in Europe.

This narrow alley on Lincoln Street leads to a series of green-trimmed apartments that ramble down the hill next to the old La Rambla building. It is named in honor of Pauline Wagner, one of the owners of this property.

The narrow court was built by Orval Mead, who grew up in Carmel and had a love of architecture, and Anne Mead, an artist and avid gardner. They both had a deep love of Old England charm and created this hideaway filled with lush flowers in 1978. The courtyard was originally named Bonnymead Court. It became Morgan Court when it was sold in the early 90s to the new owners, Ralph and Rose Morgan, who changed the name. The courtyard itself gives one the feel of peeking down a narrow street in an old English market town. Rustic light fixtures, hanging pots brimming with flowers, carved wooden benches, and exposed copper pipes add to the quirky ambiance.

Der Ling Lane is considered to be the oldest public alley in Carmel. As you enter from Ocean Avenue the store on your right was originally a gift shop owned by Adolf and Hallie Lafrenz who befriended the Chinese princess Der Ling. They named their storybook-styled shop in her honor. The Lafrenz home was located at the end of the wood arched, old Carmel stone pathway full of flowers, small benches and the lure of a very secret garden.

Las Tiendas was built in 1930 by Carmel's beloved designer and contractor M.J. Murphy for Ray De Yoe, realtor and former California State Assemblyman. Swartz & Ryland, architects from Fresno, designed "The Stores" with its nostalgic feel of Old Mexico. The Sierra Club's offices opened in 1977 at the top of the beautifully tiled front stairs. Carmel resident and internationally known photographer Ansel Adams was elected as a member of their Board of Directors in 1934, a role he maintained for 37 years. Wander back through the passageway, enjoying the abundant greenery, and discover the Carmel Coffee House — freshly roasted organic coffee at its best. The passageway continues on to Dolores Street.

Tuck Box, built in 1926 by Hugh Comstock for artist Bonnie Lee to display her antiques and rare shawl collection, is the iconic fairytale cottage of Carmel. Pedro J. Lemos, a Stanford art professor, later purchased the cottage and added the courtyard and adjacent buildings, including a garden shop in his own fairytale inspired building at the rear. Tea rooms have always found a suitable home in this quaint and charming cottage.

Inspired by the old world charm of Spain, architects Blaine & Olsen of Oakland built El Paseo in 1928 for L.C. Merrill. As noted by architectural historian Kent Seavey, the building and its courtyard are an excellent example of the Spanish Eclectic design. The various ceramic tiles on the stairway off of Dolores Street, as well as on the fountain, were imported from Spain. They, along with the handmade red paving tiles, are well seen against the white walls and old wooden doors of the building. Jo Mora's terra cotta sculpture "El Paseo" is the charming feature of the central courtyard. Mora also created the cenotaph for Junipero Serra at the Carmel Mission. His unique and lively illustrations of old California have become highly collectible. The courtyard also is home to the iconic Little Napoli restaurant. From the courtyard a narrow alley brings you to Seventh Avenue.

The arcade completed in 1961 by Jim & Toland Doud provides an interesting stroll from its Ocean Avenue entrance to San Carlos Street. Originally it housed local craft studios and small shops. Note the colorful mural by Mary Miller Klepich on the San Carlos entrance. The artisan feeling remains, especially in the central interior courtyard with its red tile floor. There has always been a casual eating establishment here, providing a feel of outdoor dining even when the fog swirls through the streets.

This contemporary court harkens back to an earlier Carmel with bay windows, shingle and tile roof, and wood trimmed facade. The many flower boxes and planters add to the charm of this small shopping court. A Birkenstock Footprint shop opened here in the mid-1970's — rumored to be the first in the U.S. Kocek Jeweler, the studio and store of designer Kirkor Kocek, here for over 35 years, entices with his elegant work. At the end of the courtyard is Trotter Galleries featuring California paintings and artists of the Carmel/Monterey area from 1875 to 1950. Bud Clark, Carmel realtor and developer, has his own weather-worn bench to observe the comings and goings of this section of San Carlos Street.

Snugged against Plaza San Carlos this brick with wood trim court is an interesting mixture of shops on the lower level and businesses upstairs. Pacific Rim, its bay window facing San Carlos, is a women's clothing store that has been in Carmel for many years.

This spot, in much earlier times, was an auto sales business. Now the buildings and courtyard are a delightful modern take on the Spanish-Mexican architectural style that helps defines Carmel's unique charm. On the corner of San Carlos Street and Seventh Avenue, Thinker Toys for over 40 years has sold intelligent toys to inspire creative thinking. Stairs from Seventh Avenue lead into the courtyard with interesting red-iron balconies bright against the white walls. Both the white stucco building and the red brick building with the tile roof have dramatic rounded arched windows.

Jewelry, art, and real estate — a very Carmel combination — are all situated in this intriguing modern interpretation of a half-timber Tudor street with stunning handcrafted finishes. Nancy Dodds Gallery since 1991 hosts contemporary and plein air artists and Alan Bienenfeld Fine Jewelry has been at home here since 1976. Be sure you find the brick stairs leading to a small balcony and enjoy the myriad of interesting rooftops in this part of Carmel. A back alley leads to San Carlos Street and takes you to Stonehouse Terrace.

This terrace was lovingly converted for commercial use by longtime Carmel residents, the Reimer family, in 1977. The Carmel stone with dark wood framing was their home from 1937 to the early '60's. Even today, granddaughter Kristi Reimer owns the green-friendly Eco Carmel shop. Wittpenn's Antiques boasts a green-framed window full of alluring collectibles and warm, inviting light. Above, in the treetops, a restaurant beckons with terrace seating and a marvelous view.

Take the main entrance to this small but lively court on San Carlos where a lovely tiled bench leads you to a small flower-laden courtyard and a view to the old belltower. Be sure to note the old tiles and Spanish charm of this rustic belltower. Turn left for the passageway to Seventh Avenue where abundant greenery spills out of a Carmel mainstay — Tiger Lily Florist.

Situated next to Nielsen Brothers Market, a family run business since 1935, the square with its white buildings with blue trim, have a pleasant feel of old European country cottages. Toward the back, formerly the Red Lion Pub, a '70's local hangout, keeps that tradition alive today as Barmel. Galleries - stained glass and photography -  both are longtime Carmel traditions. The court ends at Wells Fargo's parking lot where stairs take you down to an alley leading into the Court of Fountains.

Named after Chief Red Eagle, of the Choctaw tribe, who performed in Bill Cody's Wild West Show and rode with the Texas Rangers. He lived in this alley space until his death in 1949 and his portrait hangs at the Park Branch of Harrison Memorial Library. Originally the lane was called Goold Alley after Charles and Mary Goold, the husband and wife team who provided Carmelites with transportation beginning with horse-drawn stages and wagons to the first auto bus. They also were clever and invested in real estate. Carmel's favorite builder, M.J. Murphy, had his lumber yard and mill here.

There is something about this small section of Carmel that reminds one of the bygone years of working-class families and businesses such as car repair garages, cobbler's shops and lumber yards. The rustic wood, old brick, and stucco buildings of this court are refreshing in their simplicity. At the end find a real local secret — Tommy's Wok with cozy seating and scrumptious food. Just past Tommy's are stairs that take you out to Red Eagle Lane.

On the former site of the Loma Prieta lumber yard, this rose-studded court is one of Carmel's most impressive commercial experiences. The brick buildings and courtyard with the copper-roofed gazebo were built around 1964 and the fountains are a beautiful addition to one of Carmel's finest restaurants — Anton & Michel — offering an elegant and romantic setting and delicious cuisine since 1980. The Mole Hole, another longtime favorite, offers truly unique gifts to inspire your imagination. Don't miss the arched doorway and stairs to Seventh Avenue as well as the small passageway to Carmel Square.

A Tudor inspired two-storied building, exposed rafters and a central planter of large ferns help create is a small but charming spot. The two bowed glass windows and chimney of the front space as you enter the court are of particular interest. Attorneys and architects share the courtyard with the Carmel Stamp & Coin shop, in business here since 1985. Up the interestingly railed stairway the second floor opens to a splendid Carmel vista.

The Sunset Terrace contains a few businesses and the family-friendly, Pizza Heaven Restaurant. Enjoy your slice in this restful spot before taking the rear stairs to Seventh Avenue to continue your Carmel excursion.